Haiti Bishimbi: Kumpala Kwa Kuya Haiti, Bantu Bonso Bampushishe Lupangu Lumune

Frantzdy Pierrot wasapule kintu kunyuma kwa matrameshinga. Kakishi kya football — popa mwanda idimutwe wa kumpala wa kipanyi kya nshinta kya Haiti, ukashanga ku club mu France, ne ngumune pa bantu bapeela abashilulanga Haiti pa bukata bwa mbulamatadi. Wasapule amba: 'Nsaa yoso nabwelanga ku Haiti, bakwata-kisoka ku airport ya Port-au-Prince bayukile mama ami. Kadi mwanda football — mwanda apenanga mupunga wa bitende panze pa terminal.'

Nabakile lukendo lwoso kufuma ku disapula adyo. Kadi mwanda pabitale football, anka mwanda dyankunkumuna dyeka mpatupatu kibelo kikwabo kya kwingila mu Haiti: buloba bubamanyikwa kadi na bifundji bya kwenda anka na bya kubwela ku nshibo ne kukumana nshiku ne nshiku.

Haiti ishala mu Kalunga ka Caribbean, ikabanya kisanga kya Hispaniola na République dominicaine. Nnbuloba bumune ku bulanda bwine mu Kitongwa kya Butundula, ibakumine na mashimu abondapala a bufyeto, bulwaala bwa bipanyi bya bupianyi, ne malwa a muntu-muntu mu myaka iji pe-epe. Bifundji bya kwenda bya bilomba bya 2025 kwa Haiti bibela mu disapula dimune: Kentu kwenda. Anka Haiti nkyo nshibo ya kumpela lya nshinta lya Republika ya ntanshi yasemekwe na ntobo ya bapika. Ino mbulamatadi yasapwile kikalashi kyayo inyuma ya bipupa bya mabwe ya Citadelle Laferrière mu 1804 — ne kwa kunyima kwa myaka nkama ibidi, kino kifuko kijiko kyimene.

Kufika ku Port-au-Prince kakwadi biyampe. Nyimbo ya Kompa yafumangana ku PA system yanyunyukye mu kifulo kya bakafiki — mutemo wienga bikinga bya Afrika ne mishindo ya Caribbean pamo, wikoka bibongo byobe ukeba kumona. Bana babidi babudile mu kibundi kya bantu ku kifulo kya bikoba kya kunkwashako na mufuko wami — kadi mwanda buswe, anka bashinga bupeta. Lumu lwadi lwa kukankamika kukila tarmac panze. Bubine bwa muntu: kumoneka kwa ntanshi kwa Haiti kekwa kwendela. Anka nakatule amba kankakushenshe kukumibabo kikalashi nyi kusoneka mwanda — nkadimanga apopwe.

Kuyanguka ku lutandwa kulonda lulendo lwa mbela ya kalunga, kupityila mu bisaka ne misoko ya pa lwendo lusela lusela, Cap-Haïtien waimikine pa kilundu. Citadelle Laferrière — kifuko kikile bunene mu Kitongwa kya Butundula — kishale pa mamita nkama mwanda peulu pa mwela bu kanyama ka mabwe. Nshila ya mukuna ifika ku kifuko nkya kunyemena mpa mipume ya bamanyama nkukila kwatupa na mpolondo. Peulu pa mukuna, naineme ku bipupa bya mabwe bya myaka nkama ibidi, nkepemuna, ne mulomboledi pafupi nami wasapule: 'Uyukile, kino kifuko kebakibange nambala kukibanga ntambwe. Nkibunene mpa takudi muntu wabangile kutshina.' Panshi pa mukuna, bana bakupangilanga football pa kibala kya busende. Mikanda ya kibala yapakilwe na red ne blue ya ndembelo ya Haiti — bekumbe kifuko kya mbulamatadi ne match ya football ya dituku dyoso mu kifwatulwa kimune. Uno ngo mutemo wabwine wa disapula dya Haiti.

Jacmel nbuloba buji bisoneka na papier-mâché ne bishimunwe — bishikilo byabyo bya carnival nbya bupeta bikile mu Caribbean yoso, ne bapangi babo bikatwa bashalanga mu mazanza a kushii byando ya muntu-muntu. Mupangi-bishikilo mushale mu kibelo kyandi. Kishikilo mu maboko andi kyadi mweseko pakachi ne nkumo pakachi — kinwa kya nkalasha kyalukanga mu meno a muntu, bikuba bya bakafuma bishintulukilanga mu bisoneka bya Afrika. 'Mu nsaa ya carnival, muntu yonso umbanga kishikilo,' wasapula. 'Anka panshi pa kishikilo nko Haiti ya bubine. Mwanda kwashi bowa, ne bukalangane, ne mutemo wikukatusha kwina mpa-kelela. Ba-Haitian kebambanga kishikilo kimune apopwe.' Nalangulukye pa Wilde-Donald Guerrier — mukupanyi wa lubalo wa kipanyi kya nshinta kya Haiti wafumine ku lukunungu lwa sudi lwa Port-à-Piment kufika ku bipanyi bya football bya Europe. Lukendo lwandi lwa binyende didi bu kishikilo kya Jacmel: pakachi bukalakane, pakachi kumweka kukata mpaka nshilikishi yoso itala.

Griot — biunyi bya nyama ya mukoko bibakilwe mu mafuta, bipanwa na pikliz, saladi itoka ya pili-pili — yasapwilanga kikalashi kyayo kufuma ku miswele isatu kulee. Mwanamukaji upangilanga ino shitolo adi na myaka makumi asambombo, apron yanyunyukye ibudilwe mu kikomo, ne pammwene nkukwata bifoto wasekele, wangilwile biunyi bibidi bya nyama ku ndopolo yami: 'Dia bungi. Ukebenga.' Buta bwa pikliz bupamana na sauce yoso ya pili-pili ya Asia — ba-Haitian bakashanga spice pa kukumana na luji, bulanda, byoso bibadi bibolwa kusambwa na kudila. Mu mafuta apwilanga a griot, mu Kompa yapopotanga ku bikomo bya miswele, mu ludu lwa maboko a banamakaji ba soko akobolokanga nkunde, namwene kintu kibadi nkibolwa kusobola apopwe na diwi dya resilience.

Pa bufuku bwami bwa kumpela mu Haiti, naimene pa balcon ya hotel mu Port-au-Prince kitala bimulikye bimwanyikyengye pa bilundu — kadi bimulikye bya miswele, anka mishamu ne malampi a mishamu, bimanyiko bya dituku dyoso bya bisumbu bishii byando ya muntu-muntu. Nalangulukye pa maloba a bubanda a bifundji bya kwenda — 'mfunu wa byubilo yatombokela,' 'mafuta abadi muntu-muntu apwe,' 'kentu kwenda.' Ino bitungunuka kabya bupiama. Anka shi utanga apopwe bino bitungunuka, t'ukeyukile bwashila ba-Haitian bapanganga saladi ya pili-pili ituusha mu Caribbean yoso. T'ukeyukile bwakinyi mabwe a Citadelle akyelo kyimene kunyuma kwa myaka nkama ibidi. T'ukeyukile bwakinyi mama a Pierrot apenenga mupunga wa bitende panze pa terminal ya airport, ne bwakinyi myaka makumi abidi kunyuma mwana mulume wabo akaya kupa dîna dya Haiti mu meso a nshilikishi kufuma ku kibala kya mbulamatadi.

Kubwela ku kyasapula Pierrot ku ndekelu ya interview: 'Ndembelo ya Haiti isapula amba L'Union Fait La Force — bwisangane bwita nkome. Bu mwana kankapashile. Leelo, nsaa yoso nkubambala shapiti ya kipanyi kya nshinta, nlangulukanga pa mama ami upenanga mupunga mu miswele. Akyo kakyo kuleka. Nnshila ya mu-Haiti — pa bisi kafikanga, weye nkukangisha shitolo dyobe mwine.'