Jordanie Bishimbi: Pa Makome Aami Aa nnome Mu Petra, Mwana Mulume wa Bedouin Wansoolele Kapu ka Tchai — Wansapwile Nkambuyi Bandi Bamwene Lawrence

Meta ya kumpela ya Siq. Nshila ya makabila a mabwe, kunyuma kwa kilometre 1.2, ibalumuna mpatupatu — ikapo nayo. Treasury. Kadi mu foto, kadi pa lupapulo lwa National Geographic, kadi mu fillm ya Indiana Jones — ipapo mpatupatu, ibansulwe pakachi na lukasa lwa lumuli lwa dituku lufumya mu kikoba kya mabwe, kipindi kimune rose-gold, kikwabo kishii-motwe mu kishinkunkulu. Kunyuma kwami, muntu wasungu maloba mu Arabic keele: Alhamdulillah. Naimene apo, nkwatangile pakachi ka kukwata moyo ne kuwukwata, mu masegonde avule.

Panyuma natale kunyuma ku Siq — nshila ya mabwe nayipishishe, nshi yayo isemunibwe bu lutandashi lwa myaka nkama ibidi ne bibundu bya banyama ne mapadi a bikingamilo — ne natwele kulonda mushindo nafikilengamo.

Poso isatu kunyuma, nashaleele pa kipuna mu Beijing nkitala kimye kya kutama kya World Cup. Jordan nansolwa na mukwabo shonamvuluke dîna. Bannere babamwenye pa ekràn — 'The Chivalrous' — peulu pa ndembelo shonayukile. Kashayukile Jordan kwadi, kashayukile lukuta losapwilanga, kashayukile bwakinyi kipanyi kibetamina 'The Chivalrous.' Kamela yatwile kwa musungi wa Jordan, kyanya kyandi kifwakilwe na red, white, ne black ya ndembelo ya nshinta, meso andi akwete kintu nangulukile amba akamweneka panima pa lushipo. Kankebukilanga kyafumine mu match. Anka nkebukilanga kukangula browser yami ne kusoneka 'jordan travel.'

Amman nbuloba bubakilwe pa bilundu musambo. Taxi yanyungulushishe mu kufika kufuma ku airport, mukwata-taxi wayulanga radio ku stasyo ya Lebanon ibangulanga nyimbo ya kala ya Fairuz, panyuma usoneka ku application ya kutembula: 'Miswele ya Amman ne kushingika kwa ba-Jordanian nkintu kimune — ibenganga mu kuzunguluka ne kuzunguluka, anka ifikanga nsaa yonso.' Wansoleshe ku restaurant itamine amba Hashem — kijulwe kwa kunyima kwa myaka makumi asambombo, ke kibangapo kujibwa, na menu ya bintu bisatu apopwe: hummus, falafel, mupunga. Waiter wakumankye lutandashi lwa mupunga pa mesa ya plastike, wafutuluke na maloba a Arabic abondapala. Kankapashile, anka mudi eshaleele pafupi nami wanshintulwile na luseko: 'Wasapula amba — dia kumpala, sapa kunyuma.'

Pa nsaa isambombo ya dituku dya kulonda, naimene ku kibelo kya Petra. Shi uji na difuku dimune apopwe mu Jordan, wipa dyoso kwa Petra. Meta yoso ikumi ya Siq nkishalelo kipusane kya kilemo — bantu besamuna ku kibelo, panyuma munda-kushinda, lupupo apopwe ne mitatuko ya binyendo byobe. Bipupilo bya kala ne mipila ya mema bimoneka pa bipupa bya mabwe, mabwe abumunibwe na lupupo ne mema mu kibumbo kya musunse. Pankama pafikile meta 800, mwana Bedouin pa mbongolo wampite, wanyungulwishe mutwe: 'Pafupi.'

Kunyuma kwa nsanganyo ku ndekelu ya Siq, nashaleele pa kipuna kya mabwe kumpala mpatupatu kwa Treasury. Ba-touriste badi na mudimo wa kukwata bifoto, kutuma ku Instagram, kutala numbelo ya bipapulo mu mabuku a bulomboledi. Muntu umune apopwe kadi ukimanga — mwana Bedouin, padi na myaka ikumi ne isatu nyi ikumi ne inayi, keffiyeh itala red ne white ibudilwe ku mutwe, wineme ku mukoso. Wantale, wanyungule tchai ya kapia kufuma ku thermos, wansoolele. 'Tchai ya mint,' wasapule. 'Utambukile kyondo kilampe. Mema obe apwidile.' Tchai yadi ya kujiba, yatwilwe sukadi bungi. Namwipwishe bwa kyondo kilampe mushale mu Petra. 'Nkashala pano nsaa yonso. Nkambuyi ami pamo bwa. Wasapule amba bamwene Lawrence.' Wapake kapu kyandi panshi, walombola kulee — matambwe nkama mwanda a nkumbi kufika ku Monastery — 'Shi ukenza kuya kulee, ya leelo. Kapi bwine mu nkome.'

Dibungu dya bufuku dya Wadi Rum kalombanga kingeleshe. Mulomboledi wa Bedouin walande nshila ya jeep ya dituku dya kulonda mu musense na kikendu, panyuma wansapwile disapula: kisamba kyandi kyashaleele pano kwa bilumbulwa musambo, ne kilumbulwa kyoso kyapele desert bana ba batshina. 'Desert keishintuluka,' wasapula, 'anka bantu bakitala desert nkubashintuluka. Nanshi mashina abo nao abashintuluka.' Wabakile nongo ya mishamu, wayimanika panze pa tente — lumuli apopwe lubadi bupangwa na muntu mukatwa akisi 50 a kilometre — panyuma walombola ku Milky Way. 'Umwene ino mikando ya bitongwa? Twibetamina — bisapo bya bikingamilo.' Nayitalanga kyondo kilampe, nakatule amba dîna adi mupete kukila 'Milky Way.'

Kalunga Kafwe Ke na bimeme. Ubwelanga, mema akusumbulanga peulu, anka pa kukeba kwimana, umvwanga bukete kukila kumpala — nansha bu lukalo lwa buloba lo lwalamikane mu biponde byobe. Naeleelanga mu minite ikumi itano, nkitala ku Israel kusela, nkitala kunyuma ku lulendo lwa desert lwa Jordan ku nyuma kwami, nkeba kukunkumuna biunyi byonso bya luno lukendo. Jordan nbuloba bushii mafuta bwakunkulwile mitumbula yabwo kwa bantu be bupianganyi kukila pa bantu 3 millions. Kadi dyandi dya kumanyika nkyoba Petra, anka mifuba yabwo nkwikala kushingika. Kishika kya bino kilondo mabwe anya batempelo, bishintulula desert bu nshibo, bikwata bantu bashi kushinda bu lusangelelo.

Pa difuku dyanfumina, nabweleele ku café ibamumona ayo ayo mu Amman. Mwine wankebukile, wansoolele kafwa ya Arabic — kushii sukadi, bitamba bya mabamba panshi. Wabwimikile musawe mu kafwa yasombomwene ku lukunungu lwa kapu, wasoneke nsonga imune mu mesa. 'Ino nye Petra,' wasapula. 'Ukabwela.' Namwipwishe bwakinyi. Walombola ku mankata a kipanyi kya nshinta kya Jordan abambadilwe ku bipupa. 'Mwanda nsaa yetu ivala Jordan bakashanga, iwe ukatala.'